Day 207: Mesa Campground, Lake Roberts, NM

Since it had taken so long to cover the short distance that we traveled on NM Hwy 15, our plan for the day was to see the Gila Cliff Dwellings and then return to where Alea had stopped riding yesterday.  That way we would be ready to resume our travels early the next morning.

We waited until about 9:30 am to go to the Cliff Dwellings, allowing the temperature to warm enough that we could find a good balance between staying warm and dressing lightly.  We had thought we might have to kennel Lana (there are free kennels there for that purpose), but we managed to convince the rangers that it was cool enough that she wouldn't be in any distress by remaining in the van.

There is a loop trail that takes you up the cliff, which first follows a clear stream, crossing it several times.  We managed to walk through that at a great time of day - light reflecting off the cliffs lit up the yellow leaves of the poplar trees, though no direct light fell on them.  That by itself would have made it a great hike.

A short distance later, a series of switchbacks headed upward, with nearly every switchback offering a great view of some part of the dwellings.

But once we were up on the cliff, it was possible to walk inside several of the rooms, and an interpretive guide was there to answer any questions.  It was all quite impressive, especially the passive solar gain in the winter, as the sun angle allowed light directly into most rooms.  It was easy to imagine how the lives of these people would have been significantly easier than for other people living in the area.  Water was close by for raising a few staple crops,which attracted various game, making them easy prey.  And the forest between the water and the cliffs provided additional fuel and food sources.

It was definitely worth having driven out of our way to see this place.  And it was clear why this is one of the more remote National Monuments - up until the early 1960s the only way to get here was on steep, rutted, dirt roads.  Many folks opted to travel there for the day as part of a jeep caravan, so that the jeeps could help them if they got stuck or broke down.

The climb out of the Gila River Valley would be a major feat on a bicycle, especially for anyone touring self-supported.  Going in there and back would mean carrying enough food for four days and burning a lot of energy on the long climb out.

We drove back over to where Alea had stopped cycling the day before, then backtracked a few miles to the east end of Lake Roberts.  We camped at Mesa Campground ($15, power, water, but no showers), being thankful that we could run our heated mattress pad and tiny ceramic heater all night long to stay warm.